Solo Hike to Lake Ngosi: A Journey of Self-Discovery-ish

I’m from Mbeya. Lake Ngosi is one of the many beautiful wonders in Mbeya. Remember Kimondo? There is so much to see in Mbeya; we haven’t done a better job talking about how blessed we are. 

A change of plans

Anyway, here is a flashback to some time in September. I decided to play tourist in my hometown, which is now Songwe (thanks to the government). I contacted a friend who has documented his Mbeya travels. We had a great itinerary planned, starting in Malawi and ending at Lake Ngosi.

Life, however, has a way of derailing plans. This one fell through, but it didn’t make me give up. I wanted to prove that I could plan and enjoy a solo trip. After all, I already enjoyed my own company and this year, I resolved to embrace solo adventures, fear and all.

While at home, I DMed Everyday Mbeya to get their rate card. After speaking to them, we settled on a day trip that included Lake Ngosi, Lake Kisiba, and Kaporogwe waterfalls. 

The quest begins

The trip day started well. I said my goodbyes to my family. My sister and nephew dropped me off at the bus stop. We hugged, and off I went.

The crazy Songwe-Mbeya border crossing, infamous for its single-lane chaos of cargo trucks and passenger cars, ate into my planned time if that was not enough, Mbeya traffic hit me again due to an accident that morning. 

As they say, man plans, God laughs.

I had to drop off at Simike, a stop before the Mbeya bus terminal. Luckily, my wait was not long. Shah from Everyday Mbeya arrived in his trusty Defender. His car practically screamed, “I know what I’m doing, trust me,” which calmed my pre-hike jitters. It was already 10:30 am, an hour behind schedule.

The weather wasn’t cooperating either—it was cloudy. Shah suggested starting with Mpanga Kipengere Waterfalls, explaining that it would be impossible to see the Lake otherwise. But I was determined to see Lake Ngosi. Rain or shine, I was going.

I confirmed with Shah if it was safe to hike in the rain. He assured me it was, then contacted someone at the Lake to confirm visibility. Thankfully, the Lake was clear! 

Lake Ngosi wanted to see me as much as I did. And this made me feel like God’s own last-born daughter.

We drive to the Lake’s entrance. 

Shah, Ezekiel, and I drove to the entrance, and the scenery was breathtaking. Some parts looked like paintings from another world, reminding me of Mbeya’s hidden beauty. 

During the drive, Shah and I chatted about our love for travel. He shared his journey from Dar es Salaam to Mbeya years ago, pursuing photography and showcasing Mbeya’s beauty. We discussed the rise of domestic tourism, with more Tanzanians opting to explore their own country.

“It’s amazing to see people are willing to spend money on local travel,” Shah reflected on the growing number of Tanzanians he served through Everyday Mbeya.

I wholeheartedly agree. The explosion of local travel content online is inspiring. Travel allows you to experience new cultures, perspectives, and ways of life. It constantly introduces the new, shaping how you see the world and others.

The drive itself was a visual of picture-perfect views. It reminds me of Mbeya’s beauty and my privilege to be part of it.

Entering the wilderness

We reached the entrance around 11 am, the starting point for the actual test of my desire to immerse myself in nature. And let me tell you, I was ready for the challenge.

Ezekiel, my guide, and I began our journey into the mountains. 

We encountered beautiful wildflowers and a relaxed, colourful chameleon along the way. We let him continue on his way, and we continued on ours. Ezekiel told me it was rare to meet chameleons around that time, so I felt so lucky. 

Ladies and Gentlemen, the Lake!

It took about 45 minutes to reach the lake viewpoint. The gasp that escaped my lips made Ezekiel think something was wrong. My reaction? Pure awe. I had seen countless pictures of the Lake, each evoking a sense of serenity. But seeing it in person was a whole other experience.

The deep forest surrounding the Lake made it appear like a star sitting pretty in the lush evergreen of the Uporoto Mountains. Its distinct African map shape deepened my appreciation for Mother Nature’s interconnectedness. 

The Lake reflected its surroundings, mirroring the verdant trees in its afternoon state. This colour-changing water, based on the weather, added another layer of intrigue. The entire experience left me in a state of constant wonder.

The Lakeshore Challenge

It is indicated 1.6 km to the shore, but it felt like there were more 🙁

Now comes the actual hike: reaching the lakeshore. It’s a descent. And this was the most challenging part of the Lake Ngosi trek.

Ezekiel asked if I wanted to go down to the shore, pointing out how difficult it was. 

I have a daring spirit in nature when it comes to nature (see what I did there?). 

Reaching the viewpoint in just 45 minutes felt like there needed to be more of a challenge. Did I mention this hike was on December 31st, 2023? It was personal. I wanted to end the year with an extraordinary solo adventure to prove to myself that anything is possible in 2024. It is where I decided to spend more time in nature. So yes, I had to do it.

As we began the trek to the shore, I had no idea my butt would play such a crucial role in getting me there. It was the “whatever it takes” moment of this hike.

It was eerily quiet. All you could hear was me sliding down, my hands grabbing trees, the birds chirping, monkeys calling, and the trees swaying in the wind. It was just me, Ezekiel, and the evergreen forests of the Uporoto Mountains.

Climbing down to the Lakeshore

As we descended, we kept circling the Lake. The more you see of it, the farther you are from the shore and closer to the top. While I loved the lake view, I wanted the view of the deep forest – a sign of progress.

There were countless beautiful wildflowers along the way. I stopped to capture almost everyone I saw. Because who doesn’t love flowers? They’re constant reminders that no matter how busy life gets, there’s always time to appreciate the beauty around you, to pause and take notice.

As we climbed down, Ezekiel shared something that resonates with me today; I live by it whenever I decide to hike: “Kupanda Milima Kama hivi ni ibada kubwa sana,” he said. “Inakufanya uweze kuona na kuthamini uumbaji wa Mungu lakini pia inakufanya ukumbuke kwamba kuna maisha zaidi ya ambayo umeyazoea, aliongeza.” 

I couldn’t agree more. This thought stayed with me throughout the hike.

One of the essential things hiking has taught me so far is cultivating the ability to know when to ask for help, accept it, and offer it. Ezekiel was a godsend for this hike. It was just the two of us, but I felt safe. He knew the forest like the back of his hand, making him a fantastic guide. And oh, what a great photographer he was! I’m grateful for him and people like him who lend a hand when needed.

It took us an hour and fifty minutes to reach the shore from the top of the Lake. These 110 minutes were the most extended yet most satisfying of that day. Being able to touch the water I had only seen in pictures was a moment of pride.

The view by the shore was worth the trek. Seeing the trees surrounding the Lake and being able to hold them filled me with immense gratitude—gratitude for the opportunity to be one with nature. I prayed to God for more opportunities to see the world and appreciate his creation, myself included.

Standing beneath this rich, green forest made me feel small and big at the same time. Being there made me feel alive, calm, seen, and like I belonged. I was there. The trees saw me, felt me. Did the water touch me, or did we touch each other?

This is why I love travelling: going places, seeing things, being a part of it.

En Route to the Top of the Lake

We began our trek back to the top of the Lake around 3 pm. 

It was drizzling then, just as Ezekiel had mentioned – rain usually starts around that time. The descent had been tricky, and the return was no joke either. The rain made the path slippery, forcing me to use both my legs and hands to climb.

But I was grateful for the rain. It was refreshing, like a clean slate. One perk of hiking at Lake Ngosi is the lack of scorching sun. Thank goodness for that! We circled the Lake again, finally reaching the top at 4:15 pm.

By this hour, the Lake appeared dark under the cloud cover and drizzle. Just like I said, it reflects its surroundings throughout the day. And I love this because it’s just like life. Our environment profoundly influences who we are and how we behave. Again, nature is life itself.

Lake Ngosi planted a belief in me that 2024 would be a year of conquering and winning. So far, so good—this solo trip feels like a victory! Reaching the gate at 5 pm made it all worth it.

And Everyday Mbeya, the best service provider (they didn’t force me to say this, I promise), was there waiting for us with their impressive Defender. 

More travel content? Check Vikindu Forests Reserve here or Saanane Island here.

Have been to Mbeya? Lake Ngosi?

Thank you for reading.

Until next time,

Jane 🙂