Brewing Dreams: Isaya’s Journey with Enzi Coffee

It is 2:42 p.m. as I step into Enzi Coffee. Located just beside Victoria Filling Station, where the speakers unfailingly fills the air with gospel music. I find that soothing.

As I enter the coffee shop, my eyes lock on Isaya behind the counter. A warm smile spreads across his face as he spots me, and today, my visit is for him and their excellent coffee.

Isaya is not just the owner of Enzi Roastery and Coffee Shop; he’s also a friend I met here just a year ago. The strategic location of this place has an uncanny way of beckoning coffee enthusiasts like me. It’s how I found myself here last year.

The very first sip I took at Enzi was nothing short of excellence. Their coffee is, without a doubt, the finest I’ve ever tasted. I knew instantly that this would become my go-to spot.

The café has an airy, naturally lit interior, a backdrop of good music, and even a touch of greenery with the presence of well-placed plants. What’s not to love?

As we dive into the conversation, I savour my expertly brewed cappuccino while Isaya keeps cool with a glass of iced water. (Have I mentioned how sweltering Dar has become lately? It’s as if we’re experiencing a trial run of hell.) So, his choice of beverage is entirely justified.

In the midst of our chat, Isaya shares a memory:

The first time we met, I was genuinely surprised when you asked about the V60. No one had ever asked about it before, and then you actually bought it. You even wanted a bag of our coffee beans. That’s when it struck me that there are people who appreciate exceptional coffee. I’ll never forget that day.

You can well imagine the smile on my face as he recounted this moment; it remains with me even now as I write this.

Isaya, a devoted father to a year-old son and a loving husband, is originally from Arusha but lives in Dar. We share a laugh about our initial experiences upon moving to Dar. We wondered how anyone could endure this relentless heat. But now, we’ve both become residents who adore the city.

I was curious to learn about Isaya’s early relationship with coffee. His love affair began in his O-level years when his father “forced” him to join in the evening ritual of sharing a cup. “My dad would return home every evening, prepare a pot of Africafe, and then invite me to sit and talk over a cup of coffee. I wasn’t initially a fan; I found it too bitter. I often wondered why my dad loved it so much,” he reminisces. With a chuckle, he adds, “Whenever we were in town with my dad, we’d enjoy coffee and ‘Kashata’ from the street vendors. They’d tease me because I could not handle coffee without sugar.”

I could not help but admire the bonding time he had shared with his father over coffee. I asked if he planned to “force” his son to have coffee with him every evening. He replied, “No, I won’t. But I’ll make sure to leave coffee all around for him to stumble upon and fall in love with it on his own.”

Curious about his mother’s influence on his coffee journey, he explained,

“My mother, you see, was practically raised on coffee. My grandfather owned coffee farms on his property. To cover their school fees and other expenses, my mother and her siblings had to toil in the coffee fields; they would pick cherries, peel them, wash, and dry them until they were ready for distribution. When my mother shared that, coffee stopped being just coffee; it was the means by which she and her siblings achieved their dreams. Coffee was there for my mama. And as a result, coffee has played a role in where we are now as a family.”

I found his story strikingly similar to my own. Coffee has been in my life as far back as I can remember—a story for another time.

Isaya’s mother’s story sheds light on the world of locally owned coffee farms in Tanzania, where households are responsible for nurturing coffee farms. The processes, much like those described by Isaya’s mom, are a reality. However, it’s rare to hear the stories of these local farmers.

Isaya, a full-time software engineer, shared that his college years were defined by coffee. It was his constant companion. He and his friends would enjoy any coffee available, embracing all types.

But everything changed when he met a friend, also a coffee enthusiast, at a coffee shop. “I can not recall what I ordered that day, but I remember it was an exceptional coffee,” he said. “I had no idea about the intricacies of coffee. I would buy any coffee that crossed my path. I was not discerning until my friend introduced me to ‘speciality coffee’—coffee with a defined process from farming to roastery to the end consumer. It was a revelation; the taste was like night and day compared to the coffee I was accustomed to.”

As he recounted, he eventually realized that Tanzania produced specialty coffee, some of the finest. “Once I tasted our Tanzanian coffee, it was a turning point. I began to explore, to learn about what was available in the country, to sample different coffees, and to engage in conversations with various people about our coffee. I wondered why I hadn’t known about this.” And thus, Enzi was born.

Isaya’s desire to share this high-quality coffee with friends and family inspired the inception of Enzi Coffee. He explained, “Knowing that there is good coffee in the country, I wanted to ensure that I get good coffee consistently and share it with my friends. The initial plan was that I buy good coffee and get it somewhere to be roasted for me. I would later package it and share it with my friends. Then, I would do it all over again. So, Enzi literally was born from the desire to consume good coffee and share it with my friends and family.”

I love coffee like the next person, but I do not think I would have thought of doing this. I think I am more likely to go to a roastery and get myself a good coffee, and that would be it – this is what I do, and that is why I do not have an Enzi of myself. Just kidding. A happy consumer, this girl.

The key to enjoying consistently good coffee is the expertise behind the brew. Unfortunately, finding someone who can roast and brew it to perfection is rare. Isaya faced this challenge, too. One day, the coffee would be exceptional, and the next, there was a new roaster and a new barista who couldn’t quite match the previous quality.

Isaya decided to rise to the challenge. He seized a unique opportunity presented by the Market
Access Upgrade Programme (MARKUP) under the East Africa Community. Through the
program, he underwent training in a coffee roastery—a divine opportunity that became a
turning point for him.

“My mindset underwent a complete transformation,” he recounted with a smile. “I began to think of Enzi as more than just a passion project. It could be a proper business—a business for sharing high-quality coffee.”

As we continued with our conversation, I couldn’t help but smile. Isaya glanced out of the window, and I realized my coffee had grown cold, forgotten in the midst of our engaging chat. “It was a crazy start,”

Isaya continued. “I rented this place because of its strategic location, paid a year’s rent, and left it empty for an entire year. I had no equipment to start.”

This determination and passion that Isaya embodies are inspiring. Starting a coffee shop can be an expensive venture, from procuring the necessary machinery to setting up a space that would make the customers return. Most crucially, roasting and brewing consistently exceptional coffee demands dedication and time.

“Enzi is now a year old, and it has been a learning journey,” he reflected. “The reception of Enzi as a business has exceeded my expectations. I knew people wanted to experience good coffee, but I didn’t anticipate the extent of that desire. Our vision from the outset was to introduce Tanzanians to locally produced, high-quality coffee. Every time someone walks in and praises us for our excellent coffee, we consider it a victory.”

I am inspired by the growth of the coffee community day by day and the conversations about our coffee’s quality. On International Coffee Day (October 1), a group of coffee lovers gathered at Enzi, and we enjoyed two complimentary espresso, courtesy of the café. We talked about coffee and farmers, sampled coffee from various regions, and relished an event organized by Enzi. It felt like a taste of home.

I asked Isaya about his vision for ensuring that Tanzanian farmers directly benefit from coffee production. Having grown up amidst coffee farms, I know the complexities of coffee farming. Isaya firmly believes that it begins with us, the consumers of coffee. We must demand transparency and accountability from those selling us coffee and ask about how farmers benefit from the premium prices we pay.

He shared, “Looking ahead, we aim to create lasting relationships with farmers, but this isn’t an overnight process. Building meaningful relationships takes time. So, we are taking our time, speaking with the right people, and ensuring that our coffee consumers can trace the producers and know their stories. Their hard work matters to us and to the entire community.”

As a coffee consumer, this vision resonates with me deeply. I’d love to know the faces and stories behind the premium coffee I enjoy, with the hope that the premium price I pay is benefitting the coffee farmers, much like my mother back home or your father in Kilimanjaro, Mbeya, Songwe, and any other region with coffee farms.

As we concluded our conversation, we received alerts about an impending tsunami, urging us to return home before the chaos started. A scary alert. I asked Isaya to share his parting thoughts:

The foremost element in a coffee shop should be your coffee. Focus on brewing top-quality coffee, train your baristas to be well-versed in the art of coffee, and ensure they understand the intricacies of brewing a great cup. Regardless of your investment in machinery or the aesthetics of your space, it’s the quality of your coffee that truly defines a good coffee shop.

Coffee is a deeply personal experience, a journey you craft for yourself. There’s no judgment here—add as much sugar as you like (after all, it’s a doctor’s prerogative to advise otherwise). At Enzi, you can savour your coffee exactly how you desire it—a personal experience you’re free to explore.

As we said our goodbyes, we laughed about the circle of life—his dad introduced him to coffee, and now he has introduced him to specialty coffee, and he can never go back to instant coffee—It is always fun talking about coffee.

Later, we discovered that the tsunami alert was part of a worldwide drill. A sigh of relief coursed through us all.

Until next time,

Jane 🙂